Denim Shape-Up

Tutorial: How to change the shape of your jeans

You know the thrill of buying a new pair of jeans for an incredible price? You don't try them on, because they are your size, and there is no way on earth you are going to pass them up for that price. When you finally do try them on at home, you discover they fit wonderfully. Score! I love that thrill too. However, there have been times that the more and more I wear those fabulous jeans, I start to notice little things that make them not-so-fabulous. I think there was one time I didn't pay attention the the cut of the jean, and later found out that they were flared jeans. The more I wore them, the more I felt like an extra from That 70's Show. Flared jeans look cute on some people, but I prefer the bootcut style. It seems my husband had this same experience, and as we were talking about lengthening his jeans (see that tutorial here), he also mentioned there were some he needed taken in on the leg. He was feeling pretty gangster in some of his wider leg jeans, and if you were to meet my husband, you would find that he is anything but gangster.

On that note here are the materials you will need:

• Sewing machine
• Good sewing shears
•  Navy blue  thread and bobbin thread (thread to match the wrong side of your jeans- navy is usually a close match to any blue jean). 
• Jean thread and needle (any thread that is a heavier weight than normal thread will do, or you can use 2 spools  of the normal size- thread that is meant for jeans is of course the best option, but there are some other alternatives as well.)
• Pins of tailor's chalk

The first thing you will need to do is try on the jeans. This step is easier with two people. You will want to take in the seam that is a normal seam, as the flat fell seam that is found on most jeans is more difficult to take in, and if not done correctly could leave a lot of bulk in the seam. You would also lose the seam that is the most appealing to the eye on jeans.

 Flat-fell Seam

 Regular seam- this is the one you want to take in! It is usually on the inseam.

Ok, so you're trying on the jeans now. Take the extra fabric on the inseam and pin it where you want it taken in. Move around to where it feels like you want it too. If it's too tight,this is the best way to find out before you make anything permanent. Unless skinny jeans are what you are shooting for. My husband is certainly not one to wear skinny jeans, but everyone has their own tastes.

Excess fabric in the inseam - don't mind the Huggies behing my husband. 

 Pin the excess- I took in quite a bit.

Fitting the jean this way is going to ensure that your jeans fit the way you want them to. However, there is another way you can do it. I am not a huge fan of this method, but it would work if it is your only option.
If you have another pair of jeans that fit you well and you like the shape, you can lay these over the jeans you are altering, and pin. I see this method alot on Pinterest, and it works ok, but in order to get the best fit, you will want to use the method I explained above. Make sure the crotch/inseam intersection on both pairs match up. See pictures below:

The pair I am taking in is on the bottom. You can see how much difference is here as compared to the try-on method. If I had done it this way, it would have worked, but it would not have allowed for the best fit.

Crotch seams lining up

Measure how much you need to take in the pants, turn pants inside out, and insert pins all the way around. This works well if you are also taking some out in the crotch area. If you take the stitching out in the inseam and crotch intersection, and about 3"-5" down each side, you can get the fabric to lay flat and it is much easier to sew.

If you are not taking anything out in the inseam, you will want to taper the seam out to where you are taking it out. If this is confusing, let me know and I can go further into depth. 

You will want to make sure the hem is let out completely, it will eliminate alot of bulk and help you get the seam straight.

You will want to use the navy thread here- and a normal sized needle should work just fine. Begin stitching at the bottom of one of the legs. This way you can go all the way around without stopping. If you are taking it in below the knee, you can start at the thighs and follow the stitch line and slowly taper it to the point where you are taking it out. If you are taking it out in the whole leg, but you don't need to take any in the inseam, start in the inseam and work your way down. The last two methods will require you to take it in in individually on each leg, rather than without stopping, as in the first method.

Quick tip: Make sure the bottom hems line up!

Once you are finished sewing around the pant legs, you will want to cut off the excess. I used my serger, because it cuts and finishes the raw edge all at once. If you don't have a serger, you can cut the excess with scissors- leaving 1/4"-1/2". You can then use a zigzag stitch on the edges. 

Turn the pants right side out and finish the bottom hem where you took it out. You can follow the original stitch line. This is where you will need the jean thread and the heavier needle. Keep the navy blue bobbin thread in and use the jean thread to topstitch.

You can press the seams if you want, by using a hot iron and lots of steam and pressure. If you don't press it, it will still look ok, and will fall more naturally after its been washed.

And you now have jeans you can love forever!
Check out the before and after pictures:

Before

After

You can tell from the pictures that I also lengthened these pants.Again, that tutorial is found here.
Let me know if you have questions!

*K*